Understanding how the Indian railway system works is bamboozling to say the least. There are hundreds of different trains and several different seats and berths to choose from. In theory foreigners can now book train tickets online, however (in true Indian fashion) this process is a lot easier said than done! Read below for my ultimate India train travel guide to understand the Indian railways system, with booking tips and advice for foreigners…
HOW TO BOOK TICKETS
Creating an account on the official Indian railways website is no easy process (particularly for foreigners) as it involves completing hefty forms and submitting scans of official documents, only to discover that the booking system won’t accept your credit card! By all means give it a shot if you have the patience and would like a taste of what’s to come when traveling in India! Here’s the link (https://www.irctc.co.in/) and I wish you good luck. However, if you’re looking to book train tickets and keep your sanity in the process then I advise you to consider one of these three options…
Official government run travel bureaus
Most major cities will have a government run travel desk that’s dedicated to booking train tickets for foreigners (ask locally for more info). To date, I’ve seen one of these desks at Delhi International airport (so keep an eye out before you leave the terminal). There’s also another desk available on the first floor at New Delhi Railway station that’s solely for foreigners to use. The official government travel bureaus will help you to book tourist train tickets, which might be slightly more expensive but will usually be in the best berths available.
Use a local travel agent
In India you’re never too far away from a local travel agent who can book train tickets on your behalf (look out for signs in shop windows). You’ll end up paying these guys a small commission, but that’s money well spent when you consider the alternative options available. I strongly advise before visiting a local agent that you use the Clear Trips website to search for prices online using their train booking portal, just so you have some idea of the costs and to make sure the travel agent isn’t ripping you off! On that note however, do bear in mind that the prices change significantly for different berths (see below) and also tickets for foreigners can be more expensive than what’s quoted for domestic users on Clear Trips.
Brace yourself and go directly to the ticketing booth at the station
I definitely wouldn’t advise joining the queue at any of the busier stations (especially during peak times), but if you’re staying in a small town and happen to be close enough, then it’s probably the cheapest and simplest option for you to go directly down to the station to book your tickets. Some stations provide separate queues for women, so make good use of these and in most cases a foreign male traveller might just be excused for joining the same queue. Another tip (especially if the queues are manic) is to try your luck and walk onto the main station platform and then look out for the office of the station master. In nearly all cases the stationmaster will speak good English and if you’re polite enough then they might just help you to book tickets without you having to join the queue. Play the whole I’m a scared and innocent foreign tourist act and you’re likely to get better results!
DIFFERENT TYPES OF TRAINS
The Indian railway system can be rather complex to get your head around at times, but then so are most other things in India, so it’s probably best to not worry too much and just go with the flow! Depending on where you want to go, there are usually several different types of trains to choose from. I won’t list them all here (and there’ll always be regional variations to confuse you some more!) but the main train names worth noting are as follows…
Duronto Express
The fastest train in the network. Used for connecting major cities with no stops along the way.
Rajhdani Express
Renowned for luxury and speed. These trains tend to be the best option when available. Complimentary food is usually provided along with comfortable seating/sleeping berths.
Shatabdi Express
Fast, luxury trains that tend to connect between most major travel destinations. The Shatabdi trains usually operate during daytime hours, meaning they don’t offer any sleeping berths. Complimentary food is usually provided in chair style seating.
Humsafar Express
Newly built and launched in December 2016! The Humsafar trains are built entirely of AC3 berths and offer many new impressive features, such as charging points, communal refrigerators, CCTV, fire extinguishers, LED information display, improved seating and bio toilets! I haven’t personally travelled on one of these yet, but will keep you posted when I do!
Superfast Express/Mail Trains
These trains typically run on longer routes and tend to stop at some smaller towns along the way. Also look out for the non-superfast counterparts, which will stop at even more stations.
Toy Trains
Narrow Gauge railways that operate in mountainous regions connecting to some hill stations. Usually very slow, but worthwhile for exceptional scenery.
Luxury Tourist Trains.
There are several fantastic luxury tourist trains that operate throughout India. For example the Palace on Wheels that tours through Rajasthan and the Golden Chariot, which covers the south of the country. These train journeys do not come cheap and a seven-night stay will usually set you back upwards of $3000 USD.
CHOOSING A SEAT AND CLASS
There are several factors I encourage you to consider before choosing which seat or class to book on the Indian railways. They are as follows…
1) Will you be comfortable sleeping on trains?
Most long distance trains in India provide comfortable air-conditioned (A/C) sleeper berths, which (if you are comfortable sleeping on trains) is a great choice, with the added bonus that you’ll save on a nights stay in a hotel. On the other hand, if you’re a sensitive sleeper then this might not be the best option for you and choosing a morning train that arrives by night might be a more suitable.
2) Do you mind dormitory-style sleeping?
It’s very rare to get private berths on sleeper trains in India. They usually get booked up months in advance and when available are usually rather expensive. The standard sleeper berths available on most trains offer comfortable fold down single beds in a dormitory style setup.
3) Can you manage for a night without a clean toilet?
It’s virtually unheard of to find a sleeper train in India with private en-suite cabins. Each carriage will usually have a communal toilet at either end with a Western style toilet on one side and an Indian style toilet on the other (hole in the floor!) It’s fair to say that these will not be kept in very good condition, but might just be bearable for one night. You might want to consider investing in a travel toilet seat sanitiser like this one if you do intend to travel a lot by train in India.
4) How strong is your stomach?
Considering the previous point about then another factor worth considering is just how strong your stomach is at the time of travel? If you’re suffering from a bout of Delhi Belly (pretty common for a lot of foreigners in India) then it might be worth waiting until your stomach strengthens before taking a long journey on a sleeper train. Considering the fact that tummy troubles in India can kick in at any given moment then there really is one golden rule to follow for all foreigners traveling on sleeper trains…
ALWAYS BRING YOUR OWN TOILET PAPER!!!
|
Types of Berth
There are typically eight classes available on the Indian railways, which are as follows…
Air-conditioned first class (AC1 or 1A)
Spacious, carpeted and lockable sleeper compartments with a washbasin, usually available in 2-berth or 4-berth options. This class is only found on the most important long-distance trains and usually costs twice the price of AC2. All necessary bedding is provided and bed-berths convert to seats for daytime use.
Air-conditioned 2-tier (AC2 or 2A)
This is the best class available on most trains in India and recommended for a relatively clean and comfortable journey. Unlike the private berths in AC1, this class provides open plan carriages separated into berths of four, where the two lower berths are used as bench seats in the daytime. Each bay can be curtained off for privacy. In the evenings an attendant will come through and provide bedding.
Air-conditioned 3-tier (AC3 or 3A)
The only difference between AC2 and AC3 is that there are three tiers of bunk beds (upper, middle and lower) arranged in bays of six berth compared to the four berths in AC2. In other words, AC3 is typically more crowded than AC2. On the plus it’s cheaper, so you can save some money if you don’t mind being amongst more people. It might also make more sense to use AC3 if your travelling on a day train and don’t intend to spend the night on board. AC3 cabins don’t usually have privacy curtains like AC2 but bedding is almost always provided.
First class (FC)
The FC class is less common these days, being mostly phased out and replaced by AC2. When available it’s similar in style to AC1 (with private lockable cabins) but the main difference is that there’s no air conditioning. This means FC can become quite hot and dusty, as the windows are not sealed. On the other hand it’s a good choice for shorter trips and daytime travel as the views out the window are far better compared to the tinted glass found in AC carriages.
AC Executive chair class (EC)
This class is only found on the Shatabdi trains that run during daytime hours, so no sleeping berths are provided. The executive chairs offer comfortable reclining seats more akin to what you would see on an aeroplane. Food and drink is usually included in the ticket price and served to you at your seat.
AC Chair class (CC)
Similar to the (EC) class described above, but without the fancy reclining seats and complimentary food and drink. The carriages are all air-conditioned, making this a good option for daytime travel on shorter journeys.
Sleeper Class (SL)
This is the most common class for train travel used by the vast majority of the Indian population, meaning it can get overcrowded at times. The (SL) class contains open plan berths similar to AC3, but without the air conditioning. The open windows means the carriages can get quite dusty and grubby, but the views are often better from the open windows during daytime travel, compared to the sealed and tinted windows found in AC classes. Probably best to be avoided if you’re new to travelling in India, but a good option for backpackers or more seasoned travellers looking for a bit of spice on their journey!
2nd Class seats (2S reserved or II unreserved)
The 2nd Class seats are definitely not the best option for long distances or unseasoned travellers! The unreserved element can be entertaining when you witness people pushing and shoving to claim seats. It’s not so entertaining however, when you find yourself in amongst it all and getting crammed into a confined space! So travel in this class with caution and definitely avoid during busy times such as weekends and festivals.