I can’t remember the exact words (so I will paraphrase here) but the late, great writer, Kushwant Singh, made me laugh once when he wrote that…

“The Western obsession for Yoga and spirituality in India is a complete mystery to the native people and could be compared to thousands of Indians flocking to the U.K and being totally obsessed with Morris Dancing.”

The common Indian of today is more concerned with establishing his prosperity within a notoriously materialistic society and has very little time for chanting mantras and opening chakras. On the other hand, having been raised in the western world, I concede there is a great craving for spirituality in our world today and must confess I’m a bit of a wannabe Yogi myself!

Yoga has become big business in recent years and the Indian response to this growing western appetite for self-discovery means there are literally thousands of schools and programs to choose from. Furthermore (and especially if you’re new to yoga) it can be overwhelming to get your head around all the different techniques and styles on offer. In this way, it’s always good to choose a retreat that will introduce you to a selection of styles, so you can hopefully discover what’s best for you. With any luck, some of the recommendations below will put you onto the right track.

One should always tread carefully when seeking out an ashram in India because there are plenty of charlatans in this sector, who are more concerned with taking your money than teaching anything spiritual. Always read reviews online and speak to previous students if you can to make sure you’re in for a good ride.

As with many things in India these days, yoga doesn’t necessarily come cheap, but in most cases, spending a bit of money will assure you get a comfortable place to stay with good food and access to excellent teachers. Some institutions are extremely popular and get booked up quickly so consider reserving a space well ahead if you can.

Another thing to mention is that while the focus of yoga taught in the west is predominantly centred around the physical experience; holding poses (asanas), the majority of schools in India place a greater emphasis on the spiritual and philosophical aspects of Yoga; namely breathing, meditation, cleansing and even community work (seva).

The list below mentions some of the more popular and established retreats and institutions to be found in India. Many of these places offer introductory courses and drop-in day classes as well as lengthier programs, typically referred to within the industry as teacher-training programs. I’ve always found this term a bit mis-leading, for surely a yogi should have practiced for many years before even considering training to become a teacher?

Please consider that this list is not exhaustive and there are many other retreats (particularly the more traditional ones), that don’t have much of a footprint on the Internet. Rishikesh is an obvious place to see what’s on offer locally, as it’s widely considered as the Yoga Capital of North India along with Mysore being the best hub for yoga in the South.

BEST YOGA RETREATS FOR BEGINNERS IN INDIA

Purple Valley

Assagao, Goa

If you like your modern day comforts then this school is the one for you. Based in Goa in a serene setting with fast WIFI, comfortable rooms and excellent food included, not to mention fantastic classes with access to some of the world’s best Yoga teachers. The programs here are notoriously intense, but beginners are not only welcome but also encouraged to sign up!

Himalayan Iyengar Yoga Centre

Dharamkot, Himachal Pradesh & Arambol, Goa

This is a great choice for beginners as they offer a 5-day introduction to yoga program, which is a compulsory gateway to accessing a much wider range of their intermediate courses. The founder of this Shala is a long-time disciple of BKS Iyengar and the school is always well reputed for excellent teaching. The courses are held in two centres, which are open at different times of the year. The summer months are spent at a stunning retreat in the Himalayas while the winters are down south in the old hippy town of Arambol in Goa.

Phool Chatti

Rishikesh

Phool Chatti (meaning land of flowers) is set beside an ancient pilgrimage route on the banks of the holy river Ganges and 5km upstream from the yoga capital of the world, Rishikesh. The seven-day yoga course is designed to introduce students to a wide range of yoga and meditation practices. The ashram itself is over 100 years old but the building was renovated recently, so rooms come with some modern comforts, including hot showers.

Best Yoga Retreats for intermediate Yogis in India

Bihar School of Yoga

Munger, Bihar

Open to all (beginners – advance) but with quite an intensive schedule to follow that focuses more on yoga as a lifestyle. The program involves early starts (4am) with the inclusion of Seva each day, meaning you will be expected to muck in with gardening, kitchen work and cleaning. Don’t be put off however as the feedback from previous students is that the practice here is extremely rewarding.

Sivananda Ashrams 

Pan-India and worldwide

The Sivananda School needs little endorsement and is perhaps one of the most established yoga institutions in the world. They have many centres dotted all over the planet, with nine different locations to choose from in India. They offer everything from free intro classes for beginners to long-term teacher training programs. Considering their worldwide presence it might make sense for you to drop into a centre in your own country first for more information about their courses and approach.

Mysore Mandala

Mysore

Set on a beautiful organic farm is this well placed and highly reputed yoga centre. The main focus here is on Ashtanga yoga, but the Shala also offers a wide range of other classes to choose from, with the teacher training being highly regarded. They also offer up daily drop-in classes and a wide selection of other courses for all levels and timescales.

Best Yoga Retreats for hard-core Yogis in India

Ramamani Iyengar Memorial Yoga Institute

Pune

This ashram entices serious students of yoga from all over the globe. It holds regular classes in Iyengar Yoga (a form of Hatha Yoga) for all levels. Unfortunately, there can be a ​two-year wait to get a place at the Institute. As the Institute emphasizes the in-depth study of yoga, students are also required to have substantial prior experience in practicing Iyengar Yoga.

Ashtanga Institute

Mysore

Located in Mysore and run by descendants of the revered guru Sri Krishna Pattabhi Jois, the Ashtanga Institute offers on-going intensive courses throughout the year. The classes are for serious students only, and places are much sought after so look to book well in advance. Accommodation isn’t provided but there’s plenty to be found close by in the beautiful city of Mysore.

Mysore Krishnamachar Yoga Shala

Mysore

Classes are taught at this popular institution by the world-renowned guru, BNS Iyengar, famous for developing his own style, which unsurprisingly is known as Iyengar Yoga. Students are required to register for a minimum of one month so as to complete an in-depth yoga experience. Classes are known for being pretty tough, but for some this is the main draw of signing up! The course is definitely for experienced yogis and their website suggests prospective students should have some foundation in yoga practice to gain the full benefits of the course.

Traditional Yoga Retreats in India

Parmarth Niketan

Rishikesh

Set amongst stunning mountain scenery is this wonderfully spiritual place to practice yoga. The ashram is huge, furnished with 1000 rooms on its ​eight-acre campus. It runs a whole range of programs to suit all from drop-in classes and weekend retreats for beginners to longer teacher-training programs. They even host and perform sacred Indian wedding ceremonies too.

Yoga Institute

Mumbai

The Yoga Institute is the oldest organised centre of yoga in the world. It was founded in 1918 by Shri Yogendraji, who was a disciple of Shri Paramhamsa Madhavadasji (a renowned yoga master from Bengal). The Institute, while not being as well known as some of India’s other Shalas offers a range of excellent courses, workshops, and camps. The therapeutic health camps are of particular interest to many foreign visitors. These aim to overcome specific ailments including heart and respiratory problems, hypertension, diabetes, orthopedic conditions, and stress related issues. There are also special programs for children and pregnant women.

International Centre for Yoga Education and Research

Pondicherry

Located near the coast in the beautiful town of Pondicherry is arguably the most traditional and immersive centre on this list. They teach a very classical style and run a six-month teacher-training course (which only accepts 10 students per year) and requires a year-long correspondence course before you’re even eligible to apply. In a less intense fashion, they also run a three-week course on Yantra (the science of number, name and form) alongside daily yoga and pranayama practice.

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